The 2018 show brought one of the oldest fashion houses into a new era, reinvented as street-inspired, futuristic, Black haute couture. Most significantly, though, was his stunning debut show for Louis Vuitton on an endless open-air rainbow-coloured runway at the Palais Royal in Paris. Those moments kept on coming: a cuboid off-road Mercedes Jeep, then a retro-reboot Nike shoe collection, and Evian’s recycled water bottles. You could definitely make an eight-hour series about him. For the fashion writer Thom Bettridge, it was a “groundbreaking moment.” Virgil meant so much to so many people. Others could definitely eat their words now,” he adds. “Certain people looked at it as inspiring. Black men wearing fashion in that way wasn’t embraced at the time, says the shot’s photographer, Tommy Ton. Dressed in a blue puffer gilet, yellow trainers and red glasses, Abloh smirks knowingly at the camera – is it all a piss-take? – while West, wearing a plaid trenchcoat and holding a Goyard briefcase in his brown-leather-gloved hands, fixes us with a thousand-yard stare. Take the 2009 Paris fashion week photo, which featured Abloh with his collaborator West and a crew of flamboyant eccentrics dressed as though they were thrown into a room crammed with random designer items and told they had 30 seconds to assemble outfits. Photograph: PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/Shutterstock Virgil Abloh, Gigi Hadid and models at the Off-White show, spring/summer 2020 in Paris.
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